Tomorrow because it’s HD and took way to long to process I will annotate. But I used a combination of layer lock and clipping mask to make this digital painting. Most of the blending is a combination of painting with a lighter colour or using the smudge tool with a custom brush that I made. Tomorrow I will further update this post with better info but for now, enjoy what you can of this video.
Sorry for the lack of Vlog‘s. I’ve finally purchased my new pc and I had to transfer everything so I had to re-register EVERYTHING! Sadly no photoshop elements 7 because I don’t have an optical drive >_> So here is how this post works. While I am online, the post will say online in brackets, give me about 2mins to stream, sometimes you may need to refresh. If it says Offline in the title, then I’ve ended the stream. Click Chat to talk to me while I stream though I am super slow to reply since I spend more time drawing that chatting.
Here’s the new Vlog of the recent gift art I made. The final view isn’t the finished version but merely the next stage. I will hopefully post that progress when I get some more of it done later on in the week. Lately I’ve been drawing many different artworks all at the same time which is a good thing. The reason being is because it keeps them all fresh and stops me from over focusing and getting frustrated or worse yet, art block. My other gift art which is the one I had planned to post, the videos did not record sadly. I did most of it through livestream.com and because of my internet connection it did not record all of my work. Of course I am pretty annoyed but it’s over with now so hey, what can you do?
Some of you may be wondering why I am posting so many works in the concept stage instead of the more complete stage and there are two reasons for that. One is that it takes often up to 30+hrs. Lately I’ve been learning quicker ways to draw in order to cut the time down. The second reason is that it’s very hard to edit those long videos with windows live media player. It often crashes while editing and even while saving. Though I do have a sneaking suspicion that it’s the laptop that I am currently working from that is causing all these issues. None the less, I will keep trying to bring you more videos and ones where I complete them all the way, no matter how many hours it takes to make it! I haven’t even edited out my mistakes in this Vlog either, it’s all completely raw video that’s been speed up like the rest of them.
If you have a suggestion or request then leave it in a comment below and I’ll do my best to get it done and feature it in my next post ^__^ It doesn’t have to be anime/manga, but I am not comfortable drawing mecha or certain types of furry/anthro art. Ask anyway and I will at least attempt it and give you the artwork at the end, signed and all.
Due to some errors, you’ll have to follow this link to view the video:
Image via Wikipedia
Firstly, sorry for no posts recently. I had a 21st party to both organise and go to. It was a lot of fun, met a lot of people.
So for the next update, I will be posting a Vlog of me speedpainting a gift art, from start to hopefully finish. Some parts may be missing because half was done on live stream and the other was done on camstudio. If you are interested in viewing my livestream then click HERE. I usually post a link via twitter when I go on livestream, so if you would like to get those updates then you can Follow Me on Twitter. My Twitter link and updates are always available on the right side of my blog so if you ever loose the link, you can always catch it here as well take a sneak peek of what’s going on lately 😉
The programs I will be using will be a mix between, opencanvas, easy paint tool sai if it’s not lagging and mostly photoshop elements 7. I don’t have CS even though it’s the one I really want, I simply can’t afford it. But maybe one day or if I get enough art commissions I will spoil myself and buy it. Though that is looking to be very unlikely. Mostly because bills come first >_> Also, as always I will be working from my bamboo fun pen and touch tablet.
Image via Wikipedia
First off, this is not the absolute way to do this, it’s merely how I do things and if you want to do it my way to. I’m not saying it’s the right way or the best way but you may find some use in the tips I have.
Tools you will need:
So here it is, my short tutorial. Video was almost 50mins long. If I wasn’t having so many internet issues I would have put much more effort into the drawing but even so, my techniques would have remained the same. I am doing to talk this one out in point form because it’s easier and a little quicker to the point. I really don’t want to waffle on and confuse you guys this time 🙂
- Test out the colours you plan to use. Put them side by side to see how they will look if you plan to shade with them. The reason for this is to test the contrast of the colours. I generally chose the same colours every single time but even I need a reminder now and then.
- Sketch out what you plan to draw in the main colour you will be using, eg A skin tone if you are drawing a face, grey if you are drawing white hair etc. It also helps if you sketch out where you plan to shade or sketch in the main 3D areas you wish to accentuate. I did this with the cheeks and mouth area. Sketching like this makes it easier to paint over later.
- If you want a background colour then you should colour it first. If for some reason you change your mind at the last minute but it’s to late to go back, save your sketch with the save button at the bottom, choose either the lowest or no more than 50% opacity and colour over the top of your drawing without lifting your pen from your tablet.
- When you are ready to colour, start with the shadows and darkest parts first. Don’t worry if you do it to dark because you can always blend it in later. Use the lowest opacity to shade and slowly build up your shading.
- When you feel you are ready, start adding some lighting in the lowest opacity. Again, don’t worry if you do it to light because you can fix it the same way you can fix the shadows. Just finish off you lighting first, then darken it with low opacity. There are two ways to go about darkening and lighting. You can either build it up slowly with many strokes OR you can colour the area without lifting your pen.
- Really, you should leave your eyes until you have finished colouring your skin but that is only my opinion which I strongly recommend doing. The main reason I started it was to see how harsh the black was going to look against the skin tone which I then darkened a few times later. When you do get to the eyes, start with the whites of the eyes, the eye colour, eye shadow if you want to put eye shadow, THEN do the lashes LAST! Very important otherwise if you go over your skin or eyeshadows it will overlay the lashes and look silly.
- Add your lips in after you colour the skin to give a nice 3D plump shape. Don’t go over board with the light, just a few dots will do and for that extra 3D look, add some light around the top rim of the lips. Brake up the lighting though. Don’t fully follow the shape, just brake up the lighting a bit. You can see what I mean on the finished work in my previous post or when I zoom in in the video.
- Now on your tablet pen, it’s either left click or right click that brings up a pop up menu to zoom in or out. Use this as often as you need to. If you want the whole web page to zoom just go into your web browser settings and find the hot keys commands for zoom in and out.
- Do the same for hair and clothes, have patience but more importantly have fun and remember to save often! Unless you have a really awful net, just wait till you are done and save/post. Trust me, I saved and saved and on my second last save the net dropped out and I lost the whole picture where as if I had of waited I would have had it all posted and saved.
Enjoy! Hope this has helped at least one person. Next Vlog isn’t going to be all that fancy. It will most likely be something I make on the spot.
- Vlog Delay For Tegaki E Tutorial (draconianrain.wordpress.com)
- Concept Art Video (draconianrain.wordpress.com)
- Upcoming Video Tutorial: Tegaki E (draconianrain.wordpress.com)
Image via Wikipedia
Sorry to say this, but the new video will be delayed. When I was a sentence away from finishing the video tutorial, Windows Live Movie Maker crashed. Three attempts later the same thing. Then it crash while saving so I am going to run repairs on it and anything else that is interfering and see how that goes. Very sorry for the delay but if I had anything better to work with then I would surely use it but this is all I’ve got to use for now.
Image via Wikipedia
So, for those of you that don’t know why I disappeared for so long, it’s because I got the dental work done! I had 15 extractions and am almost totally healed up now and already I feel soooo much better. I’m full of energy and I am no longer upset with my art. In fact half the reason I was so frustrated was because I was so terribly ill, but I am healthy now so it’s all good! I am going to keep up with my Vlog though and here is the first one for 2011.
Ok so there’s been numerious questions on why I don’t shade with the standard browns like other artists and personally I find it looks too unnatural by the time I finish, even if I adjust the hues or levels in photoshop. I’ve actually found more natural looking shading from using very low opacity burgandy, aubergine, rich and deep reds and shadowy grey/purples than I have with hand picking the browns myself plus I am a bit colour blind as well and picking colours is terribly hard at times so this alternative suits me just fine. The other reason is because when these colours are on a low opacity eg 10% it mixes/blends to make that brown in just the right colour and it is easy to build up or darken in the right shade for each level of shadow desired. I’m also very heavy handed on using purple in everything from backgrounds to clothing and jewellery so the skin tones often suit my art better when they have a slight purple hue to them anyway.
So all that info aside I will explain why I’ve used blue this time. Like I mentioned, if the dominant colour is in the background, clothes etc then I tend to shade with that colour to make it suit. I’ve found doing this, I rarely have to use the hues and contrast any more because it already matches. I also used blue because he’d be understandably FREEZING! And that’s all there is to it. I was unsure of this character and how he’d look with blue around his eyes and lips so that is why I coloured the sketch. I liked it so much that I am going to finish it later in the week. I’m currently way to back logged on DA to post it there just yet because my laptop over christmas died. I’m currently borrowing a friends to do an important commission until I can get my new PC which is hopefully going to be sometime in February.
Sorry I don’t have much else to say on this picture but that’s all I have to say on how I colour and why. The plain and simple reasons are because it gives me the ability to slowly build up when on a low opacity right up to where I need it to without having to colour pick every ten minutes. Actually it’s cut my working time down by several hours doing it this way. I hope some of you find it helpful and I hope that it has cleared up some things for those who keep asking me why I or how I pick my colours to shade.
Good luck and have fun! I’ll be writing a new post in a few hours because I just finished a new video on concept art only it’s my way of doing things when I design my characters =D
- Concept Art Video (draconianrain.wordpress.com)
- Long live lavender (thestar.com)